Having a stuck choke tube on your shotgun can be a frustrating and potentially dangerous situation. Fortunately, with the right approach and tools, you can safely remove the stubborn choke tube without causing damage to your firearm. Foremost, make sure your shotgun is unloaded and never point it in an unsafe direction.

Tools & supplies you’ll want

• Manufacturer choke-tube wrench (best).

• Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar).

• Clean rags / toothbrush / small wire brush.

  Advertisement

• Strap wrench or rubber jar opener.

• Brass or nylon punch and a soft mallet (brass/nylon protect threads).

• Heat source: heat gun or hot water (not an open flame).

• Vise with soft jaws, or wood blocks to protect barrel (only if you must clamp).

• Anti-seize or light oil for reinstallation.

• (Optional) propane torch only as last resort and only if you know what you’re doing — see warnings below.

Stepwise procedure — gentle → aggressive

1. Apply penetrating oil

   • Spray or drip oil into the muzzle so it contacts the choke threads. Let it soak 30 minutes to several hours (overnight is often best). Reapply and work a little back and forth by hand between soaks.

2. Use the correct wrench

   • Use the manufacturer choke wrench inserted fully and squarely. Try to turn counterclockwise with steady, even pressure. Don’t jerk.

3. Tap the wrench to break corrosion

   • With the wrench in place, give the wrench a few firm taps with a soft mallet (or tap the end of the wrench with a brass punch). The shock can break rust bonds. Always tap in the direction that will unscrew (counterclockwise).

4. Heat the barrel (controlled)

   • If oil + taps don’t work: gently warm the muzzle area (not the chamber or stock). Use a heat gun or pour hot water over the muzzle to expand the barrel slightly. Then reapply the wrench and try again. Do NOT use an open flame if oil or solvents are present or near wood/finish; avoid heating choked barrels with synthetic components nearby.

5. Use a strap wrench or vice with protection

   • A strap wrench around the choke can sometimes grip better without damaging finish. If using a vise, protect the barrel with wood blocks or soft jaws and never over-tighten. Clamp only the barrel (not the receiver or stock).

6. Bolt/rod method (if threads intact)

   • Some choke tubes accept a bolt — screw a hardened bolt into the tube and use that as a lever with a wrench. Only do this if you’re sure threads won’t be ruined.

7. Cold/shock method (alternative)

   • Invert a can of compressed air and spray to rapidly cool the choke tube (it can shrink slightly). Then try to unscrew. Use caution with solvents and cold burns.

8. Last resorts / destructive

   • If none of the above work and the tube must come out: a gunsmith can cut the tube out or ream the barrel and repair threads. Don’t attempt power tools, cutting, or excessive heat yourself unless you have gunsmith experience — you risk ruined threads, a weakened barrel, or injury.

After removal

• Thoroughly clean the barrel threads and choke tube threads with solvent and a brush. Inspect threads for damage.

• Lightly coat choke threads with anti-seize or high-temp grease before reinstalling and hand-tighten with the choke wrench to manufacturer recommended snugness (hand + wrench; do not over-torque).

• If the choke was rusted in, consider replacing it — corrosion can make it unsafe.

When to stop and get a pro

Stop and take it to a qualified gunsmith if:

• You can’t budge the tube after the non-destructive methods above.

• Threads look damaged or you fear further force will harm the barrel.

• You’re unsure about applying heat or clamping safely.

# # #